Diptyque Philosykos was released by the French niche fragrance house Diptyque, in 1996 and the scent was formulated to evoke the scent of fig trees in summer, in Greece.
- Top Notes: Fig Leaf, Fig
- Middle Notes: Green Notes, Fig Tree Sap, Coconut
- Base Notes: Fig Tree, Woody notes, Cedar, black pepper
I would describe Philosykos as fresh, clean, earthy, natural and realistic. This is a fresh fig scent, mildly fruity but by no means a citrus or a berry fragrance. This is a very “green” scent, evoking the entirety of the fig tree. As soon as I spray this, I get the bark, the leaves and the figs that are still hanging from the tree. This is not a sickeningly sweet, over-ripe, jammy fig, but a fig that has just been pulled from the tree and sliced. The coconut here is not the stereotypical Pina Coloda coconut note, or the coconut that is prevalent in some sunscreens. This coconut is quite natural, not extremely sweet, but rather creamy and milky. I find that this note mellows out the earthiness of the top notes and adds a touch of warmth. I’m not a huge fan of coconut in fragrances because I find it can easily lean artificial, or candy-like, but this coconut is smooth and pleasant - it’s present but it’s not over-powering. Lastly, the woody notes, black pepper and cedar really anchor this fragrance and give it some depth. It’s beings to peak through after the top and middle notes have settled. Cedar is one of my favorite fragrance notes because, when done properly, it’s clean and earthy, without smelling dirty. The cedar in Philosykos is just that, it’s woody but not over powering and a touch spicy, without being overly masculine. The black pepper here is fleeting, almost like an hallucination and it comes across more as a by-product of how the other notes have blended together rather than a black pepper note being added deliberately.
Philosykos performs best during the hot summer months. It’s not an overpowering fragrance - there is something somewhat soft and light about it, almost airy. This will get lost in fall and winter, under layers of clothing. When I wear this fragrance on exposed skin, mainly my neck and décolletage, in the summer and the sun begins to warm up the surface of my skin, this fragrance transforms into something warm, sunny and comforting. It never gets stinky or cloying in the heat. Even if I perspire a bit in the summer, while wearing this fragrance, it continues to smell fresh. When I wore this to work one day, my coworker said, “You smell like Greece!” She meant this as a huge compliment.
The village (how much a fragrance projects from your body) is low to moderate. This is not a fragrance that will fill a room and it’s not designed to be. This is like being outside and the when the wind blows, you start to catch hints of scents. People will tell you, “You smell nice” versus “Your perfume smells nice”. There is an important difference between the two. I also find the wear time of this fragrance to be moderate. A few sprays and I’m smelling it for a few hours, and then I want to top it up again. I don’t mind doing this - I find it refreshing and the perfect pick-me-up throughout the day. Philosykos comes in an Eau de Toilette formulation and an Eau de Parfum. I personally prefer the EDP because it has better longevity, sillage, and it’s more balanced. The EDT is even more “green” and “bright.” However, both are lovely and in the end, settle down the same. The EDT is actually the original formulation, the EDP was released later. The EDT is also more wallet-friendly, so if you want to test out a bottle, I’d opt for the EDT, 1.7 oz (50 ml).
Philosykos is a unisex fragrance, as are most of Diptyque’s scents. I would recommend it for those who like clean, realistic fragrances that evoke the essence of a place, a space in time, or nostalgia. I would also recommend Philosykos for those who like spring and summer fragrances that deviate from the typical aquatics, florals, or citrus scents that are more standard during this time of year. This scent is interesting and even though it’s Diptyque’s top seller and is well known among the fragrance community, it’s not something that you’ll catch a whiff of on every other person. I saw a review from a woman that complained that this fragrance isn’t “feminine” - I have to disagree. We get stuck in the rut that “feminine” fragrances are sweet, fruity and floral - I find this very limiting. Wear what smells nice on you, regardless of who it’s marketed for. I find that Philosykos is neither feminine or masculine, it’s a fragrance that represents a specific place and it’s just aromatic and beautiful, much like how the scent of laundry detergent just smells good on everyone’s clothes.
This is one of my favorite fragrances, easily in the top three. I just purchased my third bottle and I still can’t get enough of Philosykos. I will always have this fragrance in my collection and it’s the fragrance that also made me fall head-over-heels for Diptyque.
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